Don’t install the throw-out bearing backwards. The larger end faces the front or pressure plate and the smaller end faces the transmission. Mounting the throw-out bearing is just as important. The clutch fork fingers must be located correctly on the wear surface of the bearing. Determine where the clutch fork’s spring clip grabs the bearing and try it on the bearing before installing. Double check them, as they can break off or bend out of position. The clutch fork should be working in the center of its range of motion, not at the end of it. If the linkage is mechanical, adjust if needed. If it’s hydraulic, check system for possible binding. The entire assembly should function smoothly without any bind. Ever have trouble with the clutch fork lining up? An adjustable clutch fork pivot ball has a range from 1-5/16 to 1-11/16 -inches. If you need to replace a bent clutch linkage, your best bet is stuff that’s made from heat-treated 4140 chrome steel.
You don’t want to contaminate the disc’s fiber or metallic surface, so be certain to clean your hands when installing or even handling the clutch disc. Clean the surfaces before installing. Use a good solvent and dry all parts. The same holds true for the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces. Any contaminates (especially the machine oil) on the metal surface will be pressed into the clutch material.
A new pressure plate may have lever blocks in it. After it’s torqued in place on the flywheel, remove the blocks from between the cover and levers.
Make sure your new clutch disc is installed correctly. The sprung center of the disc always faces away from the flywheel. Pilot tools are a big help and most clutch kits come with one. You can make one from the input shaft of a junk transmission or buy one. Make sure that the splines on the shaft and the ones in the disc hub are the same. Also, make sure the pilot tool is not too long or short as it goes into the pilot bushing. Use the tool to line up the components rather than the transmission input shaft. The longer leverage of the trans could bend the metal center of the clutch disc affecting its balance and life. Use a pilot tool for pre-assembly alignment, too.
Inspect the crankshaft flange to and insure that it is free of burrs. Always check your pilot bearing for excessive wear and/or play. For as little as they cost, buy a new one for cheap insurance. Also, it might be time to upgrade to a roller pilot bearing rather than the brass insert.
Always use a new disc with a new pressure plate and when you put them on an old flywheel have the flywheel resurfaced. Some folks skip this step as it adds to down time but remember that new metal in contact with seasoned metal usually never works. Many manufacturers offer replacement friction surfaces for their flywheels and some flywheel manufacturers sell replacement ring gears that fit both steel and aluminum units.
Always use the correct hardware. Bolts for standard and automatic transmission flywheels are different. Standard flywheel bolts are longer because the flywheel is thicker than an automatic flex-plate. Remember to use thread-locker ointment; its cheap insurance. Make sure you use the correct strength of thread-locker, as some require heat for removal. On aluminum flywheels, use only flat washers with cap screws as lock, star and other types of washers will gouge the aluminum and affect the balance. Always re-check torque numbers.
Never allow a clutch to wear below a compressed thickness of 0.280-inch or you could end up replacing more than just a clutch disc. Now it’s time to cross that bridge…
Source |
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| Hays Clutches Division of Mr. Gasket 216-688-8300 www.mrgasket.com |
McLeod |
| Molinari Racing Products 619-628-0109 www.mrpclutches.com |
