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| As shown, we cut two sections from our template and installed the rubber grommets on both sides. This will allow many variables and angles to hold the system in place. |
When you need to hook a holder to round tubing such as a cross member or when space or distance is a problem, simply cut some tubing of the same size and use one section of the hanger with the rubber installed. We welded a nut to the tubing to run the bolt tight. |
When you encounter a floor pan that hangs down excessively and need some clearance, transition tubing like this round-to-oval section is readily available. |
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| We tack-weld the transition piece to the cross-flow section and gain three inches from the floor to reduce heat to the occupants. |
The most desirable fit is the frame-to-exhaust being even the full length. As shown, we have the tubing running about 1 ½ inches below the frame, even with 3-inch tubing we used. The frame has been taped off for more contrast to illustrate this important step. |
This simple 90-degree piece can be sliced right in the center and turned around to make this step-up piece for more clearance. The mufflers need to be up as high as possible yet maintain a minimum of 2 inches from the floor for adequate heat dissipation. |
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| The transition piece lifts the short muffler up higher for extra clearance and good looks. Note that the protractor is dead-zero level. |
Another trick is to mark where you want to cut with a tubing cutter that will leave a precise circle around the tube, especially when working with a band saw and holding the part in your hands. |
The roll-in band saw automatically cuts the tubing through and past the end of the part installed in to the clamp system. The tube-cutter mark is highly visible and easy to follow. |
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| Point between the arrows is where we marked the tube to trim the material to get a good fit. The second arrow indicates a nylon strap that holds the tubing in place. |
The grind station makes short work of the tubing trim. You can use a hand grinder if need be. |
Another good idea is using a carbide burr tool to remove the flak inside all the tubes before tack welding them together. |
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