Open the box when you get your System 1 order and this is what you will find: The complete filter, two O-rings and two thread adaptors.

System 1 Oil Filters

System 1 has been in business for over 25 years from their home base of Tulare in the Central Valley of California. Their first product was a cast aluminum reusable oil filter, a lifetime product that works. There are so many of their oil filters running around the USA and across the world that they recently retooled their automotive product by making it a billet aluminum case with the same basic innards and cap.

With your oil filter off the car and all oil also removed, try to get either of the adaptors to screw onto the OEM filter mounting system. (One of them will fit and if neither does, call System 1 and they will solve your fitment problem.) Take the one that screws onto the OEM filter mount and remove it from the mount. Place “Lock-Tite” red thread locker onto the threads that screw into the filter casing and install the adaptor that fits your car.

It is important to understand that the System 1 Oil Filter runs the oil from the engine to the outside of the filter element. From the outside of the filter, it is forced through the filter element and all debris is captured down to 10 microns leaving clean oil to run through the oil galleys.  To clean it just take off the bottom of the filter casing, drop out the filter element and you can see just what is going on regarding wear or damage to the inside of the engine. Then wash it and all the inner parts and dry the components. You can use Brake Cleaner on everything except the
the three O-rings.

Governments use system 1 Filters, professional racing teams and a host of others also depend upon these filters and I have been using them for over 15 years. They cut filter costs to zero and keep track of the inner workings of the internal combustion engine in your car and in their fleets.

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Give it some time to cure and then use the correct O-ring , use some gooey lube where it mounts onto the filter assembly top, place the O-ring where it belongs and spin the entire assembly snug/hand-tight but don’t get it as tight as you can by wrench or by hand.

Summit Racing’s new carburetor may look like some other older carburetors to the old-timers, but it is all-new and works great, especially considering the low price.

Summit’s Squirter

Two years ago Summit Racing introduced their own design carburetor without too much fanfare or promotion. I was in the building and driving phase with my Elko so I needed a good basic carburetor and I didn’t want to pay an arm or leg for it. I had a 600 cfm Holley Truck Avenger carburetor from another project, but it was not big enough for the engine in my car/truck. I would never get it to run the way I wanted it to without a750 cfm unit.

To install it on my Elko required very little effort because the instructions, both written and on the free DVD, make it really easy.

I wanted to drive my Elko to shows and cruises marking it a “WIP” which stands for “Work in Progress”. My presence at shows and cruises is appreciated, as they do not see any “hot rod” El Caminos around. The only ones I had seen, before I started building mine, were stock restorations or survivors from the rust.

Now, I wasn’t planning on driving with the carb for long, just long enough to install a Holley throttle body EFI fuel system, but that project ended up being 6 months and I really appreciated the Summit squirter as it behaved beautifully.